The premises of Lal Kot in Delhi—which includes the areas of the Qutub Minar complex—are surrounded by trees, are often deserted, and have a flat roof and a shallow well-like structure. The area houses the dargah of Jamali Kamali, a deeply dug well known as the “Jewel Box”.

The Jamali Kamali Mosque and Tomb—are next to each other. The monument was built in the 16th century during the reign of Sikander Lodi. Later, the famous Sufi saint Sheikh Hamid bin Fazlullah—known by his pen name Jamali Kamboh—restored the place. However, according to today’s popular narratives, the Jamali Kamali Mosque and Tomb have become a symbol of queer love.

The complex, in an age of oral traditions, where the legend of the Jamali Kamali Mosque and Tomb is categorized purely as that of ‘lovers’, remains controversial, as Kamali’s relationship with Jamali remains uncertain. “It has been observed that both the graves have symbolic pen boxes, which indicate that they were both men,” explains Noor, a PhD scholar at Jamia Millia Islamia. What is true, she adds, is that Kamali was undoubtedly a man.

Despite the lack of historical evidence that the Jamali Kamali Mosque and Tomb has any gay history, it has become a symbol of love and acceptance for the LGBTQ+ community.

Architecturally, male graves have pen boxes built on them, symbolizing the belief that a man writes his wife’s fate. Women’s graves, on the other hand, have slates inscribed on them, says Sohail Hashmi, organiser of the heritage walk and author.

However, despite the lack of historical evidence that the Jamali Kamali Mosque and Tomb has any gay history, it has become a symbol of love and acceptance for the LGBTQ+ community. “It is called the “gay Taj Mahal” for a reason,” says Erin, a former gay collective representative. The architecture of the tomb, the way their graves are right next to each other, the poems written by Jamali are all undeniably queer and evidence of the existence of queer love and desire.’

Hashmi further explains, ‘Inside the tomb, Kamali’s grave is placed on the left side of Jamali. Usually, this is the space left for juniors with the grave of the wife or the person buried on their right. Therefore, it is generally believed that this is the grave of some disciple. One can only speculate that they may be a homosexual couple, as was the case with the Sufi saints Shah Hussain and Madho Lal in Lahore.’

The courtyard surrounding the Jamali-Kamali grave has several graves of women with flat tops. The roof of the building housing the graves is flat, which is unique because men’s graves usually have pen boxes on top of them. Madhavi Menon, in her book “Infinite Variety: A History of Desire in India”, states that the design of the building is somewhat androgynous, with a female flat roof on the outside and a male penis pen on the inside. This further adds to the central mystery around Kamali’s identity.

Hashmi further writes that while there is no evidence to identify Kamali, it is indisputable that he was a man—this is evident from the pen boxes on the tombs of the dargah.

Ishan Sharma, author and founder of Caravan: The Heritage Exploration Initiative, says, “There are a variety of assumptions about the real identity and relationship between Kamali and Jamali. One popular assumption is that they were siblings, born to the same parents, who happened to have similar names to each other. This theory suggests that there was a familial bond between the two men which was reflected in their similar sounding names.’ He later added that this theory does not make sense as the name ‘Jamali’ was adopted by the Sheikh later. Others suggest that Kamali was Jamali’s best friend, a devoted follower, a fellow poet, a local villager or even his wife.

Homosexual history has always been appreciated and seen as a depiction of homosexuality. Historical monuments in India have played an important role in portraying the country’s rich cultural heritage. Noor suggests, ‘A large number of erotic artworks depicting homosexuality can be found on many temples across India, including the Khajuraho temple sculptures built in the 700s and the Sun Temple of Konark built in the 1200s. Jamali Kamali is a prime example of the popular narratives of the “male love story” at the site.’

» Also read: 'Nightingale of Sufi': A lesbian love saga that separates the erotic from the spiritual

Former queer collective president Anya Segat says, 'Over the years, this space has become an important representation of hope, strength and endurance for the LGBTQ+ community. This space is a testament to our enduring struggle for liberation, fairness and the fundamental right to exist as our true selves without fear or judgement.'

As people belonging to the LGBTQ+ community suggest, because of homophobia and heterosexism, lesbians have not had access to love, in whatever form it may be.

### Jamali Kamali: A Heritage Site with a History of Haunting

Jamali Kamali, a 16th-century mosque and of tomb situated in the Mehrauli Archaeological Park of Delhi, suffers a reputation of having been haunted. As the name suggests, the place is dedicated to a poet known as Jamali and his companion Kamali. The tomb and mosque feature beautiful Indo-Islamic architecture, and carvings that leave many fans of history and the curious in many awe.

#### The Haunting Legends

Folklore maintains that the spirits of Jamali and Kamali continue to roam the vicinity. Many of the visitors claim to have heard sounds of whispers, seen some shapes in the air and felt a great chill in the atmosphere. Most of the people report that they can feel someone’s presence more so in the evening hours when the area is less active which is quiet unsettling. Add to this the long serpentine paths and broken diaspora which make up the surrounding gardens, and the place turns out to be very captivating indeed.

#### Visiting Hours and Conclusion

The time during which Jamali Kamali zaznam is accessible for those interested is from dawn to dusk which certainly provides enough time to appreciate the architectural work and the uplifting terrain that the site is based on. Assuming you are a history fan or an admirer of all things spooky, and equally if you wish to have an experience that is quite different, there is no better haunting heritage site than this. Jamali Kamali is the story of love, separation, and the echos of history that intrigue the travelers even today.

Jamali Kamali,Delhi